We ran a successful Kickstarter campaign for this product. That campaign may provide additional details about this product, so please check out the Freeplay Zero / Freeplay CM3 Kickstarter Campaign Page to learn more.
You will need to supply several accessories to successfully assemble a working Freeplay CM3 using this kit.
The Freeplay CM3 DIY Kit Includes
- Freeplay CM3 Circuit Board (shown in red)
- Raspberry Pi Compute Module 3 Lite (pre-attached shown in green)
- 3.2″ LCD
- Freeplaytech Glass LCD Lens Screen Cover (for that finishing touch)
- Built-in Brightness Controller
- Freeplay CM3 Keychain/Charm
- 2 Gray X/Y Button Caps (if you are choosing a long clicky X/Y build)
- X/Y Button Drill Guide (if you are choosing a long clicky X/Y build)
- Micro SD Card
- GBA-Style Shell & Rubber Button Pads (some shells include the pads)
- Extra Set Of A/B Buttons (if you are doing a soft-rubber X/Y build)
- Battery (we carry this perfect fit 2000mAh battery)
- HDMI Adapter (for playing on the big screen or testing your build before you use the built-in LCD)
- USB WiFi Network Adapter (the RPi Compute Module 3 does not include WiFi or Bluetooth functionality)
- Tri-Wing Screwdriver (the GBA-style shells often use tri-wing screws)
- Freeplay CM3 L2/R2 Analog Add-On Board (if you want to take your build to another level)
- Colored X/Y Button Caps (RetroModding.com external link)
Please see https://www.retromodding.com/collections/freeplaytechs-freeplay-zero-cm3/products/build-to-order-freeplay-zero-cm3 for any accessories that you may need that we don’t offer. On that page, you can also request to have Retro Modding build your Freeplay CM3 DIY Kit for you.
Freeplay CM3 DIY Kit X/Y Button Options
You can choose to not install X/Y buttons. That will make the shell modification process easier. If you choose to install X/Y buttons, you have 3 main options: silicone-rubber pad, rubber-nipple buttons, or long tactile sub-PCB. Check out this Freeplay CM3 Build Video Detailing The New X/Y Button Options, if you want to see how the build will work and look.
- The “long tactile sub-PCB” method is the most tried and true method, because it has been implemented on MANY Freeplay Zero/CM3 builds up until this point. You must make 2 holes in your shell (one above A and one above B) and you may choose to install button caps in these holes or just leave the small tactile button shaft protruding through the shell.
- The “silicone-rubber pad” method uses a second set of the normal A/B button caps and a second A/B silicone rubber pad from your GBA-style shell to create another 2 buttons. You must create new holes in the shell and cut up the rubber pads. Note that you will need extra A/B button caps to implement this option. You will also need to move the speaker away from the bottom button to implement this option.
- The “rubber-nipple buttons” method uses a second set of the normal A/B button caps from your GBA-style shell and a set of 4 rubber-nipple buttons to create another 2 buttons. You must create new holes in the shell, modify the 2 sets of A/B button caps, and modify the existing A/B button holes in the shell. Note that you will need extra A/B button caps to implement this option. You will also need to move the speaker away from the bottom button to implement this option.
This option will come with a silicon-rubber button pad and 4 square-base rubber-nipple buttons. You can choose which you would like to use for your build. The rubber-nipple buttons will need to be soldered on, if you choose to use them. If you choose to use the silicon-rubber pad, the build can be solderless.
This option will be just like the pre-2019 Freeplay CM3 models. The long clicky X/Y buttons will be on a sub-PCB that sits under the main PCB. If you choose this option, the buttons will come pre-soldered to the board. Your kit will come with an X/Y button drill guide to assist you with your build and 2 gray X/Y button caps.