We ran a successful Kickstarter campaign for this product. That campaign may provide additional details about this product, so please check out the Freeplay Zero / Freeplay CM3 Kickstarter Campaign Page to learn more.
You will need to supply several accessories to successfully assemble a working Freeplay Zero using this kit.
The DIY Kit Includes
- Freeplay Zero Circuit Board (shown in red)
- 3.2″ LCD
- Built-in Brightness Controller
- 40-pin Header (to solder to your Raspberry Pi Zero or Zero W)
- 2 Standoffs (for mounting your Raspberry Pi)
- Micro USB to USB Adapter (for connecting USB to your Raspberry Pi)
- Freeplay Zero Keychain/Charm
- X/Y Button Drill Guide (if you are choosing a long clicky X/Y build)
- 2 Gray X/Y Button Caps (if you are choosing a long clicky X/Y build)
- Raspberry Pi Zero or Zero W or Zero WH (WH requires no soldering)
- Micro SD Card
- GBA-Style Shell
- Full set of Rubber Button Pads (some shells include the pads or we carry them here)
- Battery (we carry this perfect fit 2000mAh battery)
- Extra Set Of A/B Button Caps, if you are doing a soft-rubber X/Y build
- Extra A/B Rubber Button Pad, if using silicone pads for X/Y buttons (we carry rubber button pad sets)
- HDMI Adapter (for playing on the big screen or testing your build before you use the built-in LCD)
- Heatsink (for those of you that are concerned about heat or plan to overclock your Pi Zero)
- Tri-Wing Screwdriver (the GBA-style shells often use tri-wing screws)
- Colored X/Y Button Caps (RetroModding.com external link)
Please see https://www.retromodding.com/collections/freeplaytechs-freeplay-zero-cm3/products/build-to-order-freeplay-zero-cm3 for any accessories that you may need that we don’t offer. On that page, you can also request to have Retro Modding build your Freeplay Zero DIY Kit for you.
Freeplay Zero DIY Kit X/Y Button Options
You can choose to not install X/Y buttons. That will make the shell modification process easier. If you choose to install X/Y buttons, you have 3 main options: silicone-rubber pad, rubber-nipple buttons, or long tactile sub-PCB. Check out this Freeplay CM3 Build Video Detailing The New X/Y Button Options, if you want to see how the build will work and look in regard to the “soft” X/Y button options.
- The “long tactile sub-PCB” method is the most tried and true method, because it has been implemented on MANY Freeplay Zero/CM3 builds up until this point. You must make 2 holes in your shell (one above A and one above B) and you may choose to install button caps in these holes or just leave the small tactile button shaft protruding through the shell.
- The “silicone-rubber pad” method uses a second set of the normal A/B button caps and a second A/B silicone rubber pad from your GBA-style shell to create another 2 buttons. We now carry sets of the silicone-rubber pads here. You must create new holes in the shell and cut up the rubber pads. Note that you will need extra A/B button caps to implement this option. You will also need to move the speaker away from the bottom button to implement this option.
- The “rubber-nipple buttons” method uses a second set of the normal A/B button caps from your GBA-style shell and a set of 4 rubber-nipple buttons to create another 2 buttons. You must create new holes in the shell, modify the 2 sets of A/B button caps, and modify the existing A/B button holes in the shell. Note that you will need extra A/B button caps to implement this option. You will also need to move the speaker away from the bottom button to implement this option.
This option will NOT come with 4 square-base rubber-nipple buttons (as shown in the photo below). If you want to build using the rubber pads instead, you will need to supply a second silicon-rubber A/B button pad (as shown in the photo below). You can choose which you would like to use for your build. The rubber-nipple buttons will need to be soldered on, if you choose to use them. If you choose to use the silicon-rubber pad, the build can be solderless.
This option will be just like the pre-2019 Freeplay CM3 models. The long clicky X/Y buttons will be on a sub-PCB that sits under the main PCB. If you choose this option, the buttons will come pre-soldered to the board. Your kit will come with an X/Y button drill guide to assist you with your build and 2 gray X/Y button caps.